We fly east to Höfn in Hornafjördur, a young town partially framed by Vatnajökull Glacier, larger than all other glaciers in Europe combined. This glacier and its various tongues flow along steep mountainsides, gently dominating the region’s coastline. Our waiting coach drives us to Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, where huge, aqua-blue icebergs dot this mystical space. We board a boat and shove off for an otherworldly cruise, zigzagging between the imposing bergs. This area was the setting for the opening scenes of the James Bond film, Die Another Day.

The coach then takes us to the base of Vatnajökull Glacier where the driver shifts into low gear and we slowly meander up the mountain track. The temperature becomes cooler and suddenly most everything on earth is white. At the staging area, we eat a good lunch in the glacier lodge before slipping into protective jumpsuits, helmets and gloves. We pick out one snowmobile, mount it and after brief instruction head into a world of splendid simplicity. The sights and sounds and silences of this majestic environment are peacefully exhilarating. There is only the now. We then return to the airport for the flight to Reykjavík.